Continuing the
maintenance masterclass, we take a look at the engine, stern drive
and underwater fittings.
Engines
It
is quite astonishing that the RNLI are regularly called out to help
motor boats that have simply run out of fuel. A motor boat has no
sail to drive it along if the engine stops, and in most cases it's
impractical to paddle or row. So common sense dictates that you
don't go anywhere, especially offshore, without carrying out a few
simple checks to minimise the risk of a breakdown. Do you have
enough fuel for the trip, plus a reserve in case of delay? Is the
engine cooling system working? Are fuel and water filters clear? Are
engine and gearbox oil levels correct?
Most
of the above applies to sailing boats with auxiliary engines. If the
engine fails and it's not a flat calm you can always get back home
under sail, but you wouldn't want to be tacking back into your
marina berth.
Increasingly nowadays in our crowded waters, boats run the risk of
getting a rope round the propeller. With outboard engines and most
outdrives, this isn't too much of a problem: you can lift the prop
out of the water to clear it. With shaft drive transmission, it's
less simple because the propeller is under the hull and you may have
to call in a diver - not very practical offshore, and one more good
reason for having a twin engine or a get-you-home auxiliary. Canal
boats, which tend to collect weed round the prop, frequently have
the ideal solution built in - a weed hatch accessible from the
inside of the boat.
Sterngear and underwater fittings
The
bits of the boat that you rarely get to see include some of its most
vulnerable points. Because they are below the waterline, any failure
can have catastrophic effects.
You
might not be able to see the outside of a skin fitting, but you can
usually check its integrity from the inside. Any sign of a leak,
either from the skin fitting itself or from the seacock, should be
dealt with immediately.
For
shaft-engined boats, the other significant point of vulnerability is
the sterngear. The sterntube is moulded into the hull, with the
propeller shaft rotating inside it, and the gap between the two is
sealed with either a cutless bearing or a sterngland packed with
grease. If the latter, the packing needs to be topped up from time
to time, whenever there is any sign of seepage.
All
metal underwater fittings are at risk from galvanic corrosion.
Ignore this at your peril! There are essentially two points to watch
out for: one, that all fittings are connected to an internal bonding
system, and two, that enough sacrificial anodes are fitted. Check
the state of the bonding wires, and also check that the anodes still
have some metal left on them to sacrifice.
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